Sweetie Pie, a new restaurant on Greenwich Avenue, by W. 10th Street, is many things, most of them good. It is very romantic. Not in a schmaltzy, cheesy Valentine’s Day kind of way. With its red banquettes and mirrored surfaces, all lit by white candles in polished silver holders, it is quietly elegant.
It can’t be described as upscale, however. You can order an omelet with caviar as well as steak, fried chicken and fish and chips. Offerings of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, cream of tomato soup (not Campbell’s) and BLTs are also on the menu. There is an extensive wine list and the bar looks fully stocked. Desserts, displayed on a trolley, were tempting morsels of pastel cakes (we didn’t have any.)
Since we are now all unemployed (and probably shouldn’t even be eating out in the first place) we ordered modestly. I had the Eggs in a Nest—scrambled eggs served in a little “nest” of Parmesan cheese. This was much better than I thought it would be. I also had a side order of leeks. The waiter told us, “The leeks are amazing.” Now when a waiter tells you something is amazing, it really better be good. They were prepared with garlic, olive oil and a little thyme. And when they came, they didn’t disappoint. Everyone at the table thought they were absolutely delicious. The creamed spinach was also quite yummy.
The burger, I’m told, was reliably tasty, although a bit on the small side, and served only on white bread. It came with a nice side of thin, lightly crisped fries. The egg salad sandwich, also accompanied by fries, was a bit more robust.
But the point of a restaurant like Sweetie Pie is not the food. It is more about the magical space they have created. Oddly enough, one of my dining companions saw Barbara Walters, discretely tucked away in a booth. While the front room is a long mirrored hall with a 1950’s style soda fountain/bar, the back room is a fantasy landscape, populated by horses, zebras and a goddess. All in all, it is a lovely place. Go with children because they will love it, too. Sit in the birdcage. And order the leeks.--Sherry Mazzocchi
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